Morocco Part 2

Our friend Emily is very into sustainability so I took a cue from her and my sister in law Kathleen and one of my New Year's resolutions is to try to live more sustainably.  We recycle, compost, and one of the reasons we decided on our apartment was because they renovated our apartment/barn in an ecologically friendly style:  solar panels, hay insulation, etc.  At least 90% of our Christmas presents were sustainable. 

Emily wanted found out about the Al Kawtar organization through a Lonely Planet guidebook.  This non-profit association was founded to assist women and children in Marrakech by providing day care, meals, technical, medical, and personal assistance.  They also have an embroidery workshop to help fund the center.  Many women learn traditional Moroccan embroidery through their families and disabled women and children who did not learn the craft can receive an apprenticeship in order to learn.   Al Kawtar sells these embroidered items in their store - which has set prices (wonderful after all the haggling at the souk).  They do gorgeous work! 

We stumbled upon the Al Kawtar workshop on our walk to the Medersa and Ben Yousef Mosque.  The workshop was modern, beautiful, and light with women and children sewing.  A woman saw us come in and showed us around.  It was very cool to see the detail up close and the women working on their pieces.  It is a great organization and if you are in Marrakech, you should definitely visit their store.

The Ben Youssef Medersa was an Islamic college founded and built in the 14th century.  There were about 180 rooms with 900 students: close quarters!  The main room has beautiful stonework and mosaic surrounding a reflecting pool.  The stonework was amazing to see. 

We also visited the Moroccan Museum  where we saw traditional Moroccan tapestries, pottery, swords, and art in what used to be a royal residence.  Everywhere, the stonework and mosaic is beautiful. It is also reputed to be haunted!

We then when to the Qdobba - a cupola built as a public bathroom, clothes cleaning area, and water fountain.  Water fountains were the center of the social scene back in the day.  Many of them are gone but the fountains that survived are beautiful. 

The outside of the Qdobba

More gorgeous stonework

Emily and I then visited a hammam where we sat in a hot steamy room and scrubbed clean.  It was...interesting to see the amount of dead skin that came off.

Our friends Dave and Melanie arrived, without Eric, which sort of surprised Dave and I because we thought he was supposed to be coming with them.  Turns out, he was coming into Fes (4 hours away) the next day. So, we decided to go on a culinary tour of Morocco.  We met up with our friend Mounir and visited the Djemma and ate these delicious snails.  Quite different then the escargot we get here.  It is served in a dark garlicy broth and very good!

We decided to visit one of the restaurant stalls.  There are many workers who try and convince you to visit a stall, but we picked a pretty delicious one.   (We visited another one a few days later that was not that great.  I would advise not to go to 117 - straight to heaven because it didn't bring us there.)

After dinner we discovered these amazing cookies - Ghoribas!  They were SO GOOD.  They taste like meringues with coconut and citrus.  We also visited the same juice bar and got delicious juices. From the pink one clockwise:  strawberry, mango, almond, kiwi, and jus royal (strawberry + kiwi + papaya). 

While writing these posts I look back on my journal.  In Marrakech, there many people begging.  Its very hard to turn away from them in any country, but I find it especially difficult in developing countries. 

It is hard when you see small children being goaded on by their parents to beg, or sell tissues, etc.  Mounir said he hates it but that they make a bit of money since lots of people feel bad for them.  We bought cookies from a lady who had a little boy and I gave him a piece of candy, he was so happy.  Then he ran over to his dad to show him, which was very sweet, but someone pointed out that he probably does it out of habit to show his what he got from begging.  That obviously may not be true, but I still makes me sad.  It is hard for me to see someone beg, especially when they look so sad and hold out their hands. 

It was difficult to see - but I know that giving them money would not help or make it better. Purchasing from Al Kawtar helps a bit, but I wish there was more I could do.  We are going to Egypt in a few weeks, and Kathleen showed me this great organization:  Stuff Your Rucksack.  This website shows different organizations that need certain supplies that are low cost and can fit in your bag.  You don't have to bring a lot, but you will bring will be very useful.  From now on, I'm definitely checking out this website before I go anywhere.  I'll be packing for the Sunshine Project! 

Gosh, sorry to end on a sad note.  Hopefully my next one will be better!